The modern Jamb Peg is a highly accurate and exceptionally well built industrial faceting machine. I've been using mine for for more than 20 years and never had a problem. If the machine is setup correctly then the final result is up the operator. Check out the Som or Brahm machines in the "where to buy ?" page
This machine has an rotating mast assembly so that any flat girdle can be cut, emerald, square, free form etc. An alternative method is needed for rounds. All other shapes can be pre-formed by eye. There is a table attachment which is very efficient, easy and fast, reverse is needed to use it.
Squaring the arm to the master lap is critical for getting perfect facet meets, if it's not done, then you won't get good meets.
It's important that the master lap and the side arm is squared up, use an engineers square to check the lap is 90 deg to the side arm of the machine, use the cheater to square it up, then take note of the cheater makings as this will be your starting point for every stone. Get this right and you should get perfect facet meets. .
While using the engineers square check the position of the cheater mark, it may be a little off the line like in the photo but it doesn't matter, it's only a reference point and every new stone will be started in this position. If you are not sure if the cheater is not set 100% correctly then check again with the engineers square.
I rarely have to touch the cheater while cutting the crown. It's used mainly when you are aligning the stone after transferring and once set that's where it stays while cutting. When doing the pavilion use the cheater to adjust the stone alignment, During polishing you may need very minor cheater adjustments because of the lap surface.
So far I have explained the basic setting up of the machine and once this is done it's now time to start faceting. All the commercial shapes, round, emerald, oval, marquise, cushion etc. can be cut on the 64 index, only exception is the trillion, you will need a six sided 48 indexer dopstick.
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